
Though
bonsai can be very daunting to newcomers when they first start
out, in reality it
is
as simple as you make it. There are many species and varieties
of trees available to grow, many new techniques that can be learnt
to improve bonsai appearance and a seemingly unfathomable quantity
of do's and don'ts, the most important aspect as a beginner is
to learn how to simply maintain the shape of your tree and keep
it alive.
Learn to look after your first tree successfully and your confidence
grows enough to widen your horizons and successfully learn more
advanced techniques such as reselling and creating bonsai. But
don't run before you walk. The first fundamental rules to learn
when embarking on this Art is that you are dealing with something
living and ever-changing; the basic rules of horticulture need
be learnt before you can successfully maintain your tree.
There are many bonsai techniques available for the bonsai enthusiast
to use to reach the ultimate goal of a beautiful tree. Confusingly,
information available on the many bonsai web sites and books can
often be contradictory. It should be understood that for every
objective such as repotting, pruning or styling there are a 100
different techniques or viewpoints. Some are based on horticultural
fact, some are based on horticultural myth and some are based
on horticultural luck!! In fact many of these techniques will
work to one degree or another; unfortunately though not killing
your tree, some advice and/or techniques can result in diminished
vigour as your trees cope under stress, whilst sound advice based
on simple horticultural fact can only improve the health, appearance
and vigour of your tree. It is for you to learn which techniques
work for you and your tree in your given situation.
BONSAI BASICS
PLACEMENT
Nearly all beginners start out by buying a bonsai from a garden
centre, shopping mall or (hopefully) a reputable dealer and are
often given summary advice.
Unfortunately, unless you buy your tree from a reputable bonsai
dealer, you may well have started on the back foot. The most common
misunderstanding that beginners have (and bonsai forum posts can
confirm this) is that Bonsai are still trees and need outdoor
living conditions. Trees need good light, good humidity levels,
good air circulation and importantly, many species NEED the cold
of winter to go dormant. Inside our homes, trees receive comparatively
poor light levels and the dry air /low humidity levels created
by central heating systems can cause many problems. There are
species that will tolerate indoor conditions and with the correct
placement and care can thrive; there are also many species that
are not hardy enough to tolerate the winter cold. But, these are
in the minority. It is far more difficult to cultivate indoor
Bonsai than outdoor Bonsai. Outdoor species very rarely die immediately
when grown inside, they can survive for months. However they slowly
lose their health and vigour in the adverse conditions they have
to cope with, and become susceptible to bugs and disease until
they finally start to show outward signs of ill-health; yellowing
leaves, lose of foliage and eventually death.
Unfortunately, unscrupulous dealers take advantage of this delayed
response to poor care and will display and sell outdoor trees
as indoor bonsai. A tree purchased from such a retailer may have
been grown inside for weeks or months and can be near death without
any outward sign. The most common bonsai to cause problems for
beginners are Conifers and very often Junipers. There is NO coniferous
species that can tolerate indoor cultivation for more than 2 or
3 years. It is worth referring to the Species Guides at BONSAI4ME.com
to establish whether you have a tree that can be grown inside.
Also refer to the section on indoor bonsai cultivation.
WATERING
This seemingly easy technique is the second most common cause
of Bonsai-related problems. Underwatering or allowing the compost
to dry out completely will instantly kill or badly damage most
trees; however overwatering can just as equally cause ill-health
and eventual death from rootrot
and disease.
The most important rule to remember is that trees should be CHECKED
for their water requirement daily but should only be watered as
required. Never, never water to a routine, this can lead to continually
sodden compost which literally suffocates the roots. The surface
of the compost MUST be starting to dry out between watering's,
then the tree can be thoroughly watered again. The time between
watering can vary from 12 hours to 7 days depending on factors
such as prevailing temperatures, wind and humidity levels. For
a more detailed guide read Watering
Bonsai.
FIDDLING
Don't fiddle! The temptation for beginners is to continually fiddle
with their tree(s), cutting bits off here and there, continually
watering, misting, moving them around etc etc. Checking daily
for water requirements and health problems is necessary, but otherwise
leave the tree to grow and simply enjoy looking at it! Pruning
back to shape is necessary but don't continually jump onto every
out of place leaf. In order to keep the tree healthy and vigorous
it needs to be able to grow freely at times. It is also important
to remember timing is very important, don't carry out jobs such
as repotting or major restyling at the wrong time of the year
as this can lead to poor health in the tree and lack of vigour.
A tree repotted at the wrong time of year for instance may survive
if you are lucky, it may even grow a bit, but, it will very rarely
reward you with vigour.
PRUNING AND REPOTTING
Bonsai need to be pruned, this keeps them small, an unpruned bonsai
simply becomes an ordinary tree. This is an area that you need
to investigate once the basics of watering and placement are understood.
If at first you are unsure, simply prune back your trees' new
growth to its' original shape when it has extended but don't prune
every new leaf that appears as it appears. By studying your tree,
watching its growth patterns and studying other peoples trees
on the internet and in books, you will be able to form a mental
picture of how you wish your tree to develop over the coming years.
It may be that you wish it to remain as it is, or, that there
are areas that could be improved. You need to establish your goals
for the tree in order to be able to prune and style it for the
future rather than just randomly cutting areas of growth back.
The other area of bonsai that needs to be addressed by the beginner
is repotting; a very straightforward technique if carried out
correctly and at the right time. Most trees need to be repotted
annually or at very least bi-annually in Spring as the years new
growth starts to appear. Trees that are not repotted will eventually
lose their health and vigour.
Many beginners trees can also be found to be planted in very poor
soils; they will need repotting into better quality soil. See
Developing Mallsai.
AGE
How old is my tree? The ONLY way of accurately aging a tree is
by counting the tree-rings at the base of the trunk, obviously
this is not possible! Normally the age of a tree can be reasonably
estimated when a tree has been owned by the same person who propagated
it from seed or a cutting; nursery stock can often be estimated
reliably at being 2 or 3 years old when bought from a garden centre.
Old branches that are removed can also have their rings counted
which can also give an indication of the age of the rest of the
tree.
However, with increased age in bonsai comes increased financial
value and this does not always result in complete honesty. There
are many bonsai techniques available to the experienced collector
that help give the impression of great age; that is after all
one of the principal aims when styling and developing trees. Field-grown
trees for instance will always display far thicker trunks than
trees that have always been grown as bonsai. It is very feasible
to create a bonsai from a cutting that after 10 years looks older
than a 30 year old container-developed bonsai.
When valuing a tree, it is not its actual age that is most important;
it is the impression of age that gives it beauty.
It is hoped that armed with these basics you can keep your bonsai
healthy and provide a platform from which to learn a whole new
art form. Good luck!